Wednesday August 28

Day 32.  Mount Gambier to Port Fairy

Distance: 164 km in 7 hrs 9 min at 23 km/ hr

Distance so far: 3318 km.

Climbed: 2021 ft .

Elevation tonight: 48 ft ASL

AHR:  114 bpm.

 Punctures so far:      0

Out at 7.15 am.      In at. 4 pm

Leaving Mount Gambier this morning it seemed that we were on for a day of rain. Clouds were down around the Blue Lake and also around the city. 

But things turned out in our favour with sun appearing after morning tea and I discarded all the cold gear at that stage. For the rest of the day, we enjoyed sunshine right until I rode into Port Fairy this evening.

As we left Mount Gambier, we dropped in to see the Umphertson Sinkhole where the roof of a limestone cavern collapsed forming a circular opening with vertical sides. James Umphertson in the late 19 th century undertook to develop this as a sunken garden. He constructed a walkway down, terraces were planted with ferns, shrubs and trees and it became a cool oasis in the summer heat. Luckily, it was all open for us to enjoy for a short period.

After  20 km we crossed the border from South Australia into Victoria...the smallest state. It was back on Day 14 that we entered South Australia i.e 18 days ago. We had two signs...a farewell and a welcome and a promise that I’d enjoy it.

The most noticeable change was the condition of the roads. Immediately the surface deteriorated. It became rough; some large potholes appeared and all along signs of ’Rough Surface’ were erected. Victoria seems to have a greater network of sealed roads to maintain. There were stretches of ’Road Works Ahead’ with a 40 km/ hr limit but I didn't see any activity except a lorry with tar barrels and lads reading the newspaper.

Just after morning tea we passed through some road re-alignment and a temporary surface. For those with narrow tyres, this part was uncomfortable and trucks passing didn't help.

From morning tea on, I cycled alone as Paul tarried in Dartmoor snapping the carved trees along the street. These old trees weren't cut down but were carved into images portraying Australian history.

John quietly drew my attention to koalas high up in the trees shortly after morning tea. They sit themselves comfortably up in the fork of gum trees. The one I saw didn't move about much or show any interest in those below.

Forestry again dominated the skyline in both states. Harvesting was busy in Victoria and big trucks carrying freshly cut logs busily passed us on the A1 all day.

More flooding in fields here than previously after the recent rains with the frogs in full voice croaking away. Didn't see any of them but their presence was clear.

With the uncertain condition of the road greater attention was required especially in those sections with dappled light. The shadows could hide a nasty rough bit or worse. Woody snapped a spoke in his front wheel today to add to the seized bottom bracket of yesterday. Fortunately, it happened on the way to Mount Gambier and a good bike shop there installed a new one in a short time. He has had his share of breakages/ punctures on his circuit.

Magpies were busy again protecting their territories from encroaching cyclists. This happens just at this time of the year. With my shadow out in front, I could see their approach and tried to snap them.

A number of interesting signs along today’s route...Melbourne begins to appear and is within touching distance. Fresh farm produce for sale along the way from farmsteads. Along the 164 km route we passed through only one town/ village but more farms than previously.

Occasionally, displays of discarded items catch the eye on trees or fences. Today, it was a vast display of shoes that covered almost 100 m of fencing. Another place, it was the skinned carcasses of animals.

Port Fairy (originally called Belfast) finally appeared as I cycled against a headwind for the final 10 km or so. The Southern Ocean was a welcome sight in the distance. 

Tomorrow (our final Rest Day), I’ll have a chance to scout around.

Our last day of long mileage although we’ll have hills to contend with along the Great Ocean Road. Still enjoying the trip.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.