Distance: 152 km in 6 hrs 01 mins. at 25.1 km/ hr.
Distance so far: 1896 km.
'Climbed': 1286 ft.
Elevation tonight: 25 ft ASL.
AHR: 109 bpm.
Punctures so far: 0
Out at 7.15 am. In at 2.30 pm.
Today started out very cold as we need the door to greet the day and check the sky. Temperatures were at 2.5 deg C and the locals were suffering from shock. The afternoon didn't rise to the same heights as of late but was still very pleasant to me.
All loaded up and Team Ireland hit the road at 7.15 at the same time as a wide load was also pulling out..... another giant dumper. We gave them the road as they requested and wished them well.
Like yesterday morning the sun was just peeping over the horizon but our direction was more to the south today. As we moved along the golden orb kept climbing into the heavens and raising that low temperature. Fingers and toes and ears were tingling for ages over the first kilometres. Strengthening over the course of the last 2+ weeks meant we took off at a fast rate , clocking 35 km/ hr for much of the first 50 km to morning tea. In fact we were the first to present for coffee.
Such a vast difference in the landscape. We got a taste at the end of yesterday. We are now definitely in agricultural country. No more Nullarbor. Back into wheat belt. Fields stretched away into the distance. Modern machinery would gobble such vast areas of grain and the old machines are allowed rust in corners and in hollows.
I pulled into Windy Ridge farm to view the crops. All other fields were green but this one had the colour of ripeness. I'm told it is bearded wheat and leave the rest to the experts. It seems some experimental project is on.
Signs of farmers at work with flocks. Sheep are the only farm animals that have appeared though Penong (79 km) had its own horse racing track. Farmsteads in the distance but also some abandoned farm buildings also. The area has gone through the usual cycle of growth and decline.
Cyclists passed each other as the day wore on; as we took our regular 20 km Bum Break those close behind just passed on and waved. Big road trains from nearby mines passed carrying their loads of gypsum, salt or mineral sands to the port of Thevenard near Ceduna. For the day they were coming and going.
Penong at 79 km is the first village/ town we have encountered since Norseman, apart from the roadhouses. Indeed it's but a crossroads with a few businesses. As Paul and I entered the town we were cheered by the kids of the primary school out at play. Everyone stopped at the service station (general store/ post office was closed till 2.30) for coffee and a snack. Our rush of orders overwhelmed the girl and we had to be patient waiting for our orders; but it was worth it. Penong is known ( locally, anyhow) as the windmill capital of the world. It boasts 26 windmills providing water for the area, all privately owned.
From Penong the highway improved on that the hard shoulder was sealed and we could pull in to greater safety. And now we were on the red road for a change. Generally roads have been excellent all the way since Perth but South Australia till now lacked that extra safety space. Regular billboards are encouraging road safety- belting up, taking breaks, speed, etc.
Junction signs are reappearing; there are places off to the left and right. Such roads have also been absent for weeks. Off to our right roads led to the coast (20 km or more) for fishing and surfing. Fowlers Bay for fishing and Cactus for surfing.
Morning tea and lunch were both just a matter of pulling off to a safe parking spot on the side of the road. After morning tea we had a short spin down a dirt stretch to rejoin the highway. Imagine cycling across the Nullarbor on such roads in the not so distant past.
LFrom 100 km till Ceduna at 152 km, Paul and I sailed along with strength in our legs. We crested some hills at 30 km/ hr and often felt that we were slowing down at 34 km/ hr. It was a great feeling to see the speedo clicking over so fast. The tailwind ( not as strong as yesterday) was a factor. We were going so well that we skipped our customary 20 km stop - didn't want to break the rhythm.
In time the number of billboards increased and we knew that a town, Ceduna, was coming up. Over a crest and there was the ocean. We had arrived at the location of Australia's largest oyster festival, a community of about 4000 souls.
.In the centre of town I needed to pick up a few things for a snack and breakfasts in Foodland. The food of has become very bare after the Nullarbor. Here in SA, they charge 10c for each plastic bag. Served at the checkout by a girl called Fiona but with her constantly throwing her eyes to heaven at anything I said, I didn't want to engage any further. Might be going back there tomorrow. Will try again.
Checked into Foreshore Caravan Park right down by the water's edge ( cg Elevation tonight). We had our cabin booked for a few days and good that we had; all booked out when we arrived. Got a lovely cabin with all cooking facilities. The shower was the first port of call.
I went for a walk to stretch my legs and so headed for the timber jetty of 500 m or so. At that stage the sun was just about to go to bed and I tried to snap it. Sunrises and sunsets here are so interesting in that you can see it all happening so fast.
For the cabin, I went to buy some wine. No wine without passport/ driving licence. In the locality there is what you might call an alcohol abusers register. Passport is scanned as a check and to tick off your purchase. I bought a box of wine and only one can be bought each day......we'll probably be satisfied with just one! All this because there is an alcohol problem in the area.
To the Foreshore Hotel for dinner and we had the best meal yet ( I had snapper) and very reasonable and a salad bar totally complimentary. We used it to replace those thousands of calories we've burned.
Tomorrow is Rest Day and a chance to scout around Ceduna and see what it has to offer.
A great finish to the Nullarbor. We are now half- way to Melbourne.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.
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