Saturday, August 31.

Day 35.       Port Campbell to Cumberland River.

Distance: 138 km in 6 hrs 57 min at 20 km/hr.

Distance so far: 3552 km.

Climbed today:  6411 ft.

Elevation tonight: 30 ft ASL.

AHR: 114 bpm.

Punctures so far: 0

Out at 7.20 am.      In at 4 pm.

A pleasant morning dawned as I set out from Port Campbell. The wind was blowing from the north as forecast. North wind here means warm wind, but as our route today was zig-zag it turned out to be a tailwind and also a headwind.

At the start our route was parallel to the coast and we made the odd turn right to particular points of interest. First port of call was to the Loch Ard Gorge. The Loch Ard was a clipper that sailed from Gravesend, England in 1878 and while having a celebration on board after the three month voyage things went all wrong with weather and navigation. It sank just off the rocks here before us. Indeed the ocean has cut its way into the land here and isolated the stacks of harder rock.

Next turn-off was to view the iconic Twelve Apostles, one of the most photographed natural phenomenon in the world. Indeed there aren’t 12 any more as they disappeared one by one. Formerly, they were referred to as the Sow and Piglets. From where I viewed them, I could see 6 to the west and 2 to the east. Other smaller ones may have been hidden behind the larger ones. There is a large interpretive centre at the entrance, but it wasn’t open at this early hour.

Shortly after the Apostles and after leaving Princetown on our right we turned inland and the climbs started. For the next 30 km, it was climb after climb. Some went on for 5 or 6 km usually with a 8% gradient sometimes touching on 10%. I made good use of the small front ring in order to spin along. I hadn’t used it too often so far on this trip. Today I climbed over 6400 ft, almost all before lunch.

This section of the route was well away from the coast (although still called the Great Ocean Road) and passed through farmland. The usual pictures of the Great Ocean Road show a road cut out from the cliff face like the road around Slea Head. But of the 186 km of the Great Ocean Road that we have cycled so far, only 20 km has fitted in with this image. Indeed, for lots of those kilometres, we weren't within miles of the ocean.

Road works continued to appear today. One rough dirt section of road was promised to be sealed in October 2013. On one of the climbs through the gum tree forests, the side of the road had fallen away (or was knocked away) and was protected with lights till repairs are done. Wasn’t helpful to be stopped by red lights on a climb.

Morning tea was at Laver Hill (well inland), we then returned to the coast at Glenaire only to turn inland again and climb through the Otway Ranges.

 The next time we touched the coast was at Apollo Bay (100km) for lunch. This was a busy spot with Saturday trippers.

From here on, there was a headwind until shelter was somehow provided by the high ground above us on our left.

Now, I was on the Great Ocean Road as I would have imagined it. Sometimes the road was at water level, other times it climbed up to viewing points from which one could savour the views. With the bike, it was possible to stop anywhere I wished; didn’t need a big pull-off area.

This cut-out section of the road was hand done by returned World War 1 soldiers as relief type of work. While on the job,they were well paid and lived in tented camps almost in military fashion. This completed section of the road was opened in 1932. Tomorrow, we will exit this tourist road after 50 km at Torquay.

At 4 pm, I pulled into Cumberland River Holiday Park and took possession of Cabin 12. It’s a scenic park on the banks of the river and a vertical face of rock towering above. Scenic, but it’s so secluded that there’s no network coverage. Also, they generate their own electricity for lights etc and all cooking, heating etc is by gas. In the cabins, no plugs to recharge our appliances.

Just before dinner I saw a kangaroo grazing over by the river. Quite a number of residents came about to view him but didn’t venture too close. About time I saw one in the wild.

So, a tough day on the saddle, but lucky that it was bright and clear to take in those wonderful views.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.